Reading ~12 min Last updated Apr 2026 Audience trade & commissioning clients
Nuriel/Education

The diamond,
understood.

A working trade primer on the 4 Cs, shapes, growth methods, and how to read a certificate. Written for jewellers, designers, and clients who'd like to know exactly what they're buying — no salesmanship, no mystique.

01The 4 Cs

Carat. Colour.
Clarity. Cut.

A century-old grading vocabulary, codified by the GIA and now used by every major lab. Four independent axes — get the trade-offs right and a stone punches well above its sticker.

01 / 04 — Weight

Carat (ct)

One carat is exactly 200 milligrams. It measures weight, not size — a deep stone can weigh more than a shallow one of the same diameter, but face-up smaller. Carat is the most visible C: doubling the carat does not double the price, it usually triples or quadruples it because larger rough is exponentially rarer.

Sweet spot. Buying just under "magic numbers" — 0.90 vs 1.00, 1.40 vs 1.50 — saves 10–15% with no visible difference.
0.50 ct 1.00 ct 2.00 ct 5.2mm 6.5mm 8.2mm — round brilliant, equivalent diameters
Colourless Tinted D E F G H I J K Nuriel range — D to H "Colourless" reads as bright white face-up; tints become visible only side-on, against a white card, under daylight. — GIA scale, D to Z
02 / 04 — Body colour

Colour (D – Z)

Graded by absence of colour: D is utterly colourless, Z has visible yellow or brown. Most clients can't reliably tell D from G face-up in a setting. Below H, tints become visible to the trained eye; below K, to anyone.

Nuriel stocks D–H only. Below H, the diamond starts to fight the metal it's set in. We don't think it's worth the trade-off.
03 / 04 — Internal character

Clarity (FL – I3)

Inclusions and surface blemishes — graded under 10× magnification. From flawless (FL) down to obviously-included (I1–I3). For lab-grown, the inclusion profile reads slightly differently — typical features are pinpoint metallic flux marks (HPHT) or wispy graining (CVD).

VS1 / VS2 is the trade default. Eye-clean to anyone without a loupe, half the price of VVS, and the difference reads only under 10× magnification.
VVS VS SI I 10× only 10× only eye, sometimes visible
SHALLOW light leaks out IDEAL light returns DEEP light absorbed Depth Table Crown 59 – 62.5% 54 – 60% 14 – 16° excellent excellent excellent
04 / 04 — The most important C

Cut (Poor – Excellent)

Cut is a stone's craftsmanship — the angles, proportions, and finish that decide how light bounces back to the eye. A poorly-cut D / VVS1 will look dull next to a well-cut G / VS2. The other three Cs describe what the stone is; cut decides how alive it looks.

Always cut first. If you compromise anywhere on the 4 Cs, never compromise on cut.
02Shapes

Eight shapes,
three in stock.

Round brilliant accounts for ~70% of trade demand and is what we keep deepest. Oval and pear we hold in working depth. Anything else we source on commission within 10 working days.

Round Brilliant
In stock — 50+

The default. 57–58 facets, the most studied light-return on earth. Any setting, any era, no surprises.

View in catalogue →
Oval
In stock — 20+

Looks larger per carat than round, lengthens the finger. Beware the bow-tie — well-cut ovals minimise it.

View in catalogue →
Pear
In stock — 12+

Teardrop. Modern, asymmetric, photographs well. Set point-up for elongation, point-down for boldness.

View in catalogue →
Emerald
Sourced — 10 days

Step cut. Long parallel facets — broader flashes, a glassy, architectural look rather than fire.

Commission via Studio →
Cushion
Sourced — 10 days

Soft-cornered square. The vintage choice — warm, candle-lit fire rather than disco brilliance.

Commission via Studio →
Radiant
Sourced — 10 days

Cropped corners, brilliant facet pattern — the rectangle that reads as bright as a round.

Commission via Studio →
Marquise
Sourced — 14 days

Pointed oval. Maximum face-up area per carat — looks the largest of any shape at the same weight.

Commission via Studio →
Asscher
Sourced — 14 days

Square step-cut. Hall-of-mirrors effect, distinctly Art Deco. Demands very high clarity.

Commission via Studio →
03Lab vs Mined

Same diamond,
different birthday.

A lab-grown diamond is not a "diamond simulant" — it's a real diamond that crystallised in weeks rather than billions of years. Same carbon, same lattice, same hardness, same fire. Only the where and the when differ.

Lab-grown — Nuriel suppliesMined
CompositionPure carbon, sp³ latticePure carbon, sp³ lattice
Hardness10 / 10 Mohs10 / 10 Mohs
Refractive index2.422.42
GradingSame 4Cs by IGI / GCAL / GIASame 4Cs by IGI / GCAL / GIA
OriginConflict-free by definition. Documented to the chamber and the day.Variable. Kimberley Process traces country of origin, not site.
Carbon footprintRoughly half of mining, when grown on renewable gridsSignificant — pit, water, transport, refining
Trade price60–80% below mined at the same gradePremium driven by scarcity narrative
ResaleCurrently weak — secondary market is youngEstablished, but spread between trade and retail is wide
04How they grow

Two methods.
Same result.

Modern lab-grown diamonds are made by one of two routes — chemical vapour deposition (CVD) or high-pressure high-temperature (HPHT). Both produce real, gem-quality diamond; they leave faintly different trace patterns under spectroscopy that the labs use to mark origin.

— Method 01

CVD

Chemical Vapour Deposition. A diamond seed sits in a vacuum chamber filled with methane and hydrogen; microwave energy strips the methane apart and carbon settles on the seed atom-by-atom, building the diamond layer-by-layer.

01
Seed. A thin diamond plate, ~0.5mm thick, on a moly holder.
02
Plasma. Microwave dissociates CH₄ → free carbon atoms.
03
Deposit. Carbon settles on the seed at ~0.1mm / day.
04
Cut. 3–4 weeks for a 2ct rough; cut to ~1ct polished.
— Method 02

HPHT

High-Pressure High-Temperature. A small diamond seed sits inside a cell of carbon and metallic flux. The cell is squeezed to ~5 GPa and heated to ~1,400°C, mimicking the conditions deep in the earth's mantle. Carbon dissolves into the flux, then re-crystallises onto the seed.

01
Cell. Seed + carbon + metal catalyst, sealed in a press.
02
Press. Belt or cubic press → ~5 GPa, ~1,400°C.
03
Crystallise. Carbon migrates through flux onto the seed.
04
Cut. ~1 week per cycle, near-cubic crystal yields.
05Reading a certificate

A grading report,
field by field.

Every Nuriel stone ships with an IGI or GCAL report. Eleven fields you should know how to read — they tell you exactly what you bought.

IGI Laboratory Grown Diamond Report

— International Gemological Institute · Issued 12 Apr 2026
Identification
1Report no.LG 612 489 077
2InscriptionIGI 612489077
3Shape & cutRound Brilliant
Grading results
4Carat weight1.52 ct
5ColourF
6ClarityVS1
7Cut gradeExcellent
Additional
8Polish / SymmetryEX / EX
9FluorescenceNone
10Measurements7.32 × 7.34 × 4.51
11Growth methodCVD · As-grown
1
Report number. Unique to this report. Verify online at the lab's site.
2
Inscription. Laser-etched on the girdle. View under 10× — text should match the report number exactly.
3
Shape and cutting style. "Brilliant" = triangular/kite facets; "step" = parallel facets.
4
Carat weight. Reported to two decimals. Anything bigger than the second decimal is rounding.
5
Colour. D–Z scale, graded face-down against masters under daylight-equivalent lighting.
6
Clarity. FL → I3 under 10× magnification. VS1/VS2 is the trade default.
7
Cut grade. Holistic — proportions, polish, symmetry, light return. Excellent or skip.
8
Polish & Symmetry. Quality of the finish and facet alignment. Both should be EX or VG.
9
Fluorescence. Reaction under UV. None or Faint is preferred. Strong/Very Strong can muddy the stone in sunlight.
10
Measurements. Length × width × depth in mm. Compare to spec — out by >0.05mm and the cut grade is suspect.
11
Growth method. CVD or HPHT, with any post-growth treatment noted ("As-grown" = no treatment).
06The trade sweet spot

Where to buy.
Where to save.

Across thousands of stones traded, the same answer: cut Excellent, colour D–H, clarity VS1–VS2. That window costs roughly half what its grade-card looks like, with no visible compromise. Below is the field, with the Nuriel range marked.

Premium spendThe sweet spot — NurielAvoid
CutExcellent · ideal proportionsExcellent — non-negotiableGood or below
ColourD–E (colourless)F–G (face-up identical)I and below
ClarityFL · IF · VVS1VS1 · VS2 (eye-clean)SI2 and below
Carat1.50, 2.00, 3.00 (round numbers)0.90, 1.40, 1.90 (just under)0.49, 0.99 (cut to weight)
FluorescenceNoneNone — FaintStrong, Very Strong
CertGIAIGI · GCALUnbranded labs
Browse stones in the sweet spot

Now, the
actual stones.

1,247 certified stones live in the catalogue — sortable by every field you've just read about. NZD pricing held seven days.